home surf

arms and head throw back
meet the wave, take and consume me
smacked down and tumbling, free
salt becomes me, around my core

burst back and scream to the sun
whip my hair, up spray flying
tingling bubbles burst from my skin
the power liberates and drowns me

floating, flying, rocking along
white water breaking over, I’m under
head strong echo beneath the crash
welcome chill opposes the sun

I’m back to where I belong
alone, in the crowd, surfing the bears
five minutes turns into hours, I crest
lost and alone, and home with myself


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